Airsoft Way to Convert a Higher Bb Fps to Lower Bb

airsoft gun being chronographed at the Forest City Surplus airsoft range in London Ontario Canada

How fast is your airsoft gun firing?

At that place are many situations where you lot may want to modify the FPS of your airsoft gun. The most popular beingness and then that your gun can be played on a specific field. Since nosotros are in the London, Ontario, Canada expanse we will continue this guide on changing your FPS keeping in heed the FPS speeds immune past nearby fields. Nosotros volition use the Flagswipe Paintball outdoor field, State of war Pigs Indoor arena and Mach one indoor CQB field.

Increasing to the highest FPS with full auto nevertheless allowed

The outdoor field we will use as an case volition be Flagswipe Paintball's outdoor airsoft/paintball field. The max FPS they let hither for airsoft, while all the same beingness immune to shoot full auto is 400 FPS. Nosotros volition use a Chiliad&Chiliad CM16 Raider as the instance weapon for this situation. This is my personal airsoft gun, and I have personally bought entirely new internals for this gun, except for the gearbox and the gears themselves. This gun started off effectually the 360 FPS range (requite or take 5 FPS) which was a perfectly acceptable start bespeak. We demand to gain 35 to 40 FPS to max out. My preferred route would exist to do a bound upgrade and to get new piston, and cylinder heads. This would be the easiest fashion to attain the new speed, although there are some other methods nosotros could use. This gun comes stock with an m120 spring, which nosotros would upgrade to an m125 spring. This should proceeds united states of america about 10-15 FPS. This leap is non so much stronger that you lot need to worry about your other internals wearing downwardly much faster; they will be able to withstand the jump. Then we want to check our air seals. Nosotros tin can easily check this past putting our finger on the cylinder caput escape pigsty then compressing the piston, and see how much air escapes. This gun was fairly skilful in this regard, however I noticed that there was some slight air loss, and so I chose to go for new cylinder head and piston caput. For the cylinder head I chose a full aluminum head with double o-ring seals. It is very of import to make sure you lot buy the correct head for your gearbox. This gun has a V2 gearbox, so we got the V2 cylinder head. Then I decided to get a double o-ring piston head by magic box for my piston. This piston head also has ball bearings to allow yous to get you the best forcefulness possible. One time both of these were in the gun I noticed almost some other 15 FPS was gained. Proper air seals really help the efficiency of the gun, also as requite you more consequent FPS. The last very beneficial internal upgrade we should do is a proper shim job on your gears, and grease everything. When I did this I took my time to make sure there was absolutely no grinding on the gears, and and then I greased my spring, gears and piston. This merely ensures that everything will operate with very petty resistance. It volition also brand your gun much quieter to shoot as you will now only hear the motor whine and the spring firing. I got about a 5-7 FPS improvement by doing this which will put united states right effectually the 395-397 FPS range. This allows for a slight variation in FPS from shot to shot and puts the states correct at the max edge. If y'all did non receive an FPS shut enough to 400 with the final pace of shimming and greasing, and so I would recommend getting a tighter bore butt. Brand certain that that butt is the aforementioned length equally the onetime one. I then replaced the stock 6.05 mm width butt with a 6.03mm tight bore barrel. This width will still fire full auto without any issues and should result in a five-10 FPS improvement.

Dropping your gun's FPS to play indoor airsoft

This department is for the players who accept bought a gun and information technology is firing over 380 FPS. Most places such equally Mach 1 Airsoft have a FPS limit of 380. Some indoor fields accept even less like War Pigs (at present closed) had a limit of simply 350 FPS. Save yourself some hassle and make sure y'all check your field's regulations for indoor earlier yous brand a conclusion on what parts y'all need to purchase. I would say that if this is the state of affairs you're in then you should really just change the spring on your gun. Since you volition exist putting in a softer spring there really is no need to alter many of the other parts which as all designed to work together. If you accept already upgraded your other parts this means that your gun will be running more efficient than guns with stock parts. It can be hard to know exactly how much softer a spring you lot need to go, all the same I have found as a general dominion y'all tin expect x-13 FPS loss per 5 spring force you lose. For example if you lot went from an m120 spring doing 395 FPS, and lowered the spring to an m110 your FPS would be in the range of 370-375 FPS afterward the swap. You lot rarely need to upgrade all your internals for the lowering of FPS, just remember it can be very important to exercise and then if you are going in the direction of raising FPS.

Some other note to make is that you tin can always purchase a gun that has a low FPS for indoor play specifically. Many people have an outdoor rig since they play woods brawl almost of the time, but it never hurts to go along your skills up during the winter. You can do this even buy purchasing the clear plastic guns. Even though they do not look every bit dainty as the black plastic guns they will more than suffice for low FPS indoor play during the winter. Also it never hurts to have a clear pistol every bit a secondary. Many of these meet the FPS regulations for indoor, and tin be useful for really tight corners. Do not underestimate articulate plastic weapons when it comes to indoor play!

Getting your gun into the sniper FPS range (400-450 FPS)

Before I get started about this sort of a build, delight note that this is to turn AEG's into a DMR style build. Every gun is different and you need to take fourth dimension and enquiry what parts are all-time for you. This is my experience and I have been extremely happy with the results. I started with a Grand&Grand CM16 Raider as my base model. As I have said earlier this gun is a solid platform to build on, and although I am basically irresolute out all the internals I still actually relish the gun as an affordable solid body to begin with. This is the list of internal changes I made to the gun, the outer appearance can exist whatsoever your personal appeal is, and remember to make it your own!

So many of the parts I listed before I still use in this setup on my CM16. This build does require many more than part upgrades because of the new stress the gun is under. I decided to become with a tight bore barrel. I found just the barrel I was looking for at an affordable cost with the 6.01mm x 455mm long tight bore contumely barrel by DYTAC. This was going to allow my shots to be every bit accurate as possible. As this was a sniper burglarize the goal was to tighten the groups I was firing. This now runs into a Modify fully metal hop-up unit of measurement. Your hop-up can be a fragile piece considering the pressure from the cylinder head goes direct to it. So I decided to remove the plastic one and put this in. It should be noted that I left G&Thou'due south stock hop-upwards nub in this setup. I also added 2 o-rings on the barrel that sit where the barrel and the hop-up connect to help with air sealing. Every bit I stated before I added a modified cylinder head with double o-rings. The cylinder caput has full aluminum structure just to make sure it can handle the force. This connects to the cylinder which was swapped to a light weight aluminum one by Modify, it is the enhanced one that is not ported. I changed the piston this time around to a Mad Bull PX piston that has full metal teeth. This was because I did not desire the plastic teeth of the sometime piston to wear out since it is engaging the piston under much more than stress than previously. I still used the Magic Box double o-ring piston head with ball bearings which works actually well. I added an m130 bound by SHS. It should be noted that you should be careful when putting this jump into the gun, I did have it wing out one time. On the end of the spring I at present take a modified bearing spring guide which was for a V6/V7 gearbox. I did have to make some adjustments by grinding downward the edges so it would fit. To do this accurately I used the stock spring guide to decide the best lengths while I was on the grinding stone. I still re-shimmed the gear box and greased all the insides to make sure it would work properly and without wear for every bit long as possible. Make certain that yous grease the teeth on your gears and on your piston, it makes the gun much quieter and smoother. To top this unabridged build off I swapped the motor in the pistol grip for a SHS Ultra High Torque motor, because I wanted to make sure that information technology would be able to effortlessly pull back the new heavier spring. This motor did need a spacer to help it brand good contact with the gears, and after a few adjustments to the pressure it was working smooth, and making peachy contact. After all this was said and done I am reaching 450-455 FPS on this M4 build. It tin accurately shoot up to 225 feet with the hop-upward beingness the only adjustment needed.

Forest Urban center Surplus has all your airsoft needs correct here in London, ON. Whether you lot demand ammunition, sights, attachments, or beginner to expert guns, Forest City Surplus has some of the all-time pricing around. Remember to keep checking in as we get new stock in regularly, and information technology is constantly changing. You just never know when the perfect airsoft accompaniment for you will land in our store.